In our last edition of  "Making a Reliable Driver" we addressed the cooling system.  This time we'll deal with the ignition system.  This is one of the two areas of the car that have great deal of effect on the way the car runs and how easily it starts.  Your first step will be an optional one.  If the car is not running well you will want to take it to a shop that has a "scope".   (This is sometimes called a "Sun machine" by the old-timers.

Sun was a manufacturer for many years of "oscilliscopes" for auto repair shops.)  Putting your car on this will enable the shop to determine if the car is not running well because of an ignition problem.  If you think the car is running OK you might want to have it put on the scope anyway just to be sure the ignition system is really up to snuff. And ask them what they think of the condition of the plug wires and the distributor cap. By having them check the car out you might find the car could be made to run better than it does.  This way you'll know for sure. It costs $30-$50 to have this service performed.  Also, if you do not have a dwell meter (if you do you'll know it) have the shop replace the points and condensor (if your car does not have electronic ignition).  Before you go in you should take along your repair manual so the shop will know the correct point setting (the dwell).  And have them save the old points and condensor for spares.  If you don't have a timing light, have them check the timing while you're there.  A little later we'll address the issue of where to set the timing.

 So you've gotten a clean bill of health from the scope test.  Now it's time to stop at that reliable parts store you've found and purchase the following items: spark plugs, spark plug wire grease,  and points and condensor if the car does not have electronic ignition.  The only reason not to replace these items is that you know they have recently been done.  Some additional items you could consider: go ahead and replace the plug wires and distributor cap.  They're not that expensive, and that way you'll know they're new.  And you can carry the old ones as spares. Two final items to consider buying: an ignition coil, and if you have a car with electronic ignition, the ignition control module.  Both of these will normally give about 30 seconds warning before they go out (seriously).  Which is to say, they can easily leave you stranded with no warning.  Coils cost $30-$40, and electronic ignition control modules , $10-$15.  Consider carrying one of each of these for emergency spares.

 The next step is to find that cool spot where you can work on the car.  Begin by replacing the plugs.  Do so one at a time; do not pull off more than one plug wire at a time.  You don't want to have to remember which plug wire goes on which plug.  Did you notice the plug wires were hard to pull off?  That's because the last guy who took them off did not put spark plug boot grease on the inside of the spark plug boot on the end of the spark plug wire.  Now you know why you bought some of this grease.  And be careful how you grab the plug wire when you take it off.  Pull on the boot and not the wire for it is easy to pull the wire out of the connector that snaps onto the plug.  It is possible to re-crimp this connector onto the wire but it is not always a successful operation.  Now take a small screwdriver and smear a small amount of grease around the inside of the spark plug boot.

 You may wish to start with the plugs that are easy to reach.  That way you have a sense of accomplishment when you get to the hard ones.  Check the shop manual and be certain you have the plugs at the correct gap. If the gap is a range, use the narrowest gap.  That way the electrodes will not be as far apart when they wear.  When you remove and install the plugs be careful not to move the wrench up or down as you can crack the porcelain on the plug.  If possible you will want to keep the old plugs to have some spares.   When you install the new plugs, be sure you have them threaded correctly.  Cross-threading them will damage the cylinder head.  Get the new plugs snug.  Now start the car up and make sure it is running at least as good as it was when you started.  If it's not, begin by pulling off momentarily and reinstalling one spark plug wire at a time.  When the way the engine is running does not change you know which cylinder is the culprit.

 If you decided to do the points and condensor they're up next.  Do not attempt to change the points if you do not have a dwell meter.  Make a good note of the position of the points and install the new ones in the same position.  Check the manual for the point gap-the distance between the points when the point rubbing block is on a high spot on the distributor.  To get the point block on a high spot on the distributor it's easiest to put a socket on the crank pulley to rotate the engine.  Now use your feeler gauge to set the point gap.  Remember that the gap will narrow somewhat when you tighten the point screw.  Put the distributor cap back on and start it up.  If it wont start, try resetting the point gap.  After that is completed, replace the condensor.

 If you also purchased the distributor cap and ignition coil put them in.  Remove the plug wires from the old cap one at a time and place them in the new cap.  Don't think you can pull out all 8 and then remember where they go.
 If you have a vacuum gauge, test the vacuum advance to be sure it does not leak and that it advances the timing.  If it leaks you can buy a new one.  If possible, get one that is adjustable.  This is a key element in getting the timing set correctly.  If you did not check the base timing, do so now and set it to the factory specification.
 If you are dealing with a car built after about 1971 it is probably designed to run on lower octane fuel.  But if before 1971 it is designed to use premium.  And even with today's premium it may "knock" on acceleration.  Thus, our adjustable vacuum advance.   Most of these are designed to make this adjustment by inserting an allen wrench into the vacuum port on the advance and turning it to increase or reduce the amount of advance supplied.  This is a more preferable way to go than simply retarding the base timing, for retarded timing will almost certainly compromise the idle quality.  Reducing the amount of advance to the point that it does not ping will alleviate that problem and will retain a good idle quality.

 So there you have it.  You should be all fired up.  We'll see you next time with our installment on fuel systems.