"Harold!", your wife exclaims, " this is the last time I come to get you because your old car has broken down on the road!"  But you think to yourself, "People did it when these were new, or nearly new.  So why can't I do it now?"  You're wanting to use an "old" car as a daily or semi-daily driver, and perhaps even take it on trips of several hundred miles.  But one of the reasons people bought these as new or nearly new cars was because they would likely be more reliable than an "old" car.  So how do you make a reliable driver out of an old car?  Over the next several installments we will address the various mechanical areas of a car that impinge upon its ability to provide reliable transportation.  We will address not only the items needing attention but also why it is important to insure that they are operating properly.  Along the way we will also accumulate an emergency spare parts kit.  We will have in mind here cars built in the '60's and '70's, though much of this advice is applicable to cars of any vintage.

        We must make several assumptions.  First, at the very least, this car will be driven several thousand miles a year; at most, it may even be your only daily transportation.  Second, this is not a "cost-is-no-object" restoration.  We will not simply be replacing everything as a matter of course, but will be considering those items which will increase the car's life expectancy or reduce the chance of a breakdown on the road.  Third, you have at least a moderate amount of mechanical ability and a basic set of tools.  Fourth, your car is in reasonably good running condition as it is.  It starts fairly easily, does not run excessively rough, nor exhibit serious major faults.    Fifth, you do have access to a repair shop that you trust, for not all of this may be in your realm of expertise.  Sixth, as with the repair shop, you have a source of quality replacement parts.  Seventh, you possess or have access to a repair manual for your car.   So, lets begin with the cooling system.

        The combustion process in an engine can take place at temperatures reaching several hundred degrees.  The heat generated by this could quickly damage major parts of the engine if it were not "whisked" away in a timely manner.  This is the purpose of a car's cooling system.  The water pump circulates the "coolant" (a mixture of anti-freeze and water) through passages in the engine block, cylinder heads, and intake manifold, where it picks up the heat generated by the combustion process.  From these locations the coolant flows out to the radiator (via a radiator hose) where the air passing through cools it off.  From the radiator it goes back into the engine (via the other radiator hose) and the process starts all over.  So how do we increase the likelihood of this happening properly and consistently?  We begin by purchasing the following parts from a high quality source: 2 gallons of anti-freeze;  bottles of cooling system flush, and water pump lube and anti-rust; a new set of belts (fan, AC, PS, Air pump (if so-equipped)); upper and lower radiator hoses (with new clamps); heater hoses (with new clamps) (check first to see what it will take to remove the old heater hoses; getting them off of the engine may be more than you are willing to tackle); a water pump bypass hose (with clamps) (usually just an additional piece of heater hose); cooling system "test strips"; and a thermostat (see further about 430/462 thermostats).  You may wish also to purchase the following parts: a new heater core (see below about heater core replacement); a new radiator cap; and a can of the correct color spray paint (and some sandpaper) to paint the thermostat housing. You will also need to have saved eight to ten plastic gallon milk jugs.
        The first step is to be sure the coolant is not too old.  Green anti-freeze has an "in-car" life of about 2 years.  If you are uncertain how long it has been since the last time the coolant has been changed, then it is best to go ahead and replace it. Begin by draining the radiator and refilling it with water and the bottle of cooling system flush. Allow the engine to run according to the directions (have the heater blowing on "high").  One caution here:  if the cooling system has not had the regular kind of care that it should, the flush may dislodge buildup that is actually serving to plug up leaks.  While it is not pleasant to cause the radiator or heater core to have a leak it otherwise did not have, it will be better to have this happen in your driveway than miles from home. If the cooling system has been neglected, it really should be brought up to a proper performance level and this will mean identifying possible weak places in the radiator or heater core. Before installing the cooling system flush, place several old towels or rags under the dash where the heater core is located. (If the heater core does develop a leak during this procedure you will want to preserve the carpeting).
        Now that you have run the engine for a few minutes with the cooling system flush, shut the engine off.  At this point, do not loosen the radiator cap, as you will get a geyser of 200 degree water .  Get your drain pan under the radiator drain and loosen the plug.  Once a couple of quarts have drained out, loosen the radiator cap.  Allow as much coolant to drain out as possible and then retighten the drain.  Next, fill the radiator with clean water (no anti-freeze or any other additives).  OOPS-you forgot to re-tighten the drain and your water is going all over the driveway.  Well quick, reach down and close the drain.   Re-tighten the radiator cap and allow the engine to run for about ten minutes.   You will now begin to look for leaks that may have been "uncovered" by the flush.  We are also accomplishing here the task of removing more of the old coolant.  This procedure of filling with clean water, running the engine and draining it, should be repeated at least 3 times.  More than 5 is probably overkill.  It may also be limited to how many milk jugs you have as this is where you will put everything you have drained out of the radiator.  Now time for some appearance work.
        Remove the thermostat housing.  Note the position of the thermostat and gasket.  They will have to be replaced exactly as they were removed.  (We are making the assumption they were installed correctly; if they not, problems would have ensued.)   If you are working on a 430/462 Lincoln you may want to think first about whether or not you want to replace the thermostat.  The primary thermostat is behind the flange on the radiator overflow tank where it fits up against the engine (as such it does not have a thermostat housing).  While it is not terribly difficult to remove this tank, these flanges can sometimes leak when re-installed.  They can be repaired, but it's a hassle.  But if the engine you're working on has a thermostat housing that is readily accessible (i.e.-a 400ci or 460ci), you should change the thermostat while you have the cooling system open.  The thermostat is the "gatekeeper" that allows the coolant to flow from the engine out to the radiator.  If it sticks closed the engine can quickly overheat.  If it sticks open the engine may never get fully warm in the winter.
        So, you've gotten the thermostat out and have pulled the housing out of the upper radiator hose. Do not damage the radiator hose.  If you believe the thermostat was working properly, set is aside, as this will go into our collection of emergency spare parts.  Clean the housing thoroughly, give it a good sanding, and spray it with the paint you bought.  If a nice clean part in the engine compartment will look out of place, you may want to skip this potentially embarrassing step.  If not, hang the freshly painted housing from a coat hanger in the garage and return to the selection of parts you bought.  If you purchased a new heater core,  grab it and get back out to the car.
        Listed as a part you might have wanted to buy was this new heater core.  These are normally not very expensive.  Before buying one you should read the procedure for replacement to determine how difficult it is.  Normally, the heater core is located on the firewall, right where the heater hoses go into it.  If it is removed by taking it out through the firewall it should not be too complicated.  But if it has to come out from under the dash it could be a lengthy procedure.  You make the call.  And if you happen to know it has been done in recent years, the decision has been made for you.  But if you wish to replace it, detach the heater hoses from it and save the clamps for the emergency spares kit.  If you find it difficult to extricate it from its hole, there may be a "tar" like substance on the underneath side to hold it in place.  You simply have to give it some encouragement.  Put the old core with the emergency spares.   Transfer as much of the "tar" as you can to the new core and slide it back into place.  You have now accomplished the most difficult step in a cooling system revitalization: replacing the heater core.  It's child's play from here on in.
        Next get the new set of belts.  Loosen the accessories (i.e.-alternator, AC compressor, etc.) that hold the old ones in place.  And you had better not be reaching for your exacto knife or any other sharp cutting instrument.  The lazy man's way of getting the old belts off is simply to cut them.  Unless the old ones are severely worn they will go into the emergency spare parts kit.  Install the new belts beginning with the one furthest in and work your way out.  If your car is later than 1969 it will be equipped with an air pump.  If the belt is missing off of it this may be because the air pump locked up.  See if the air pump pulley will rotate easily.  If not, it is locked up and you have a decision to make.  Check with a reliable source of information as to whether or not it is legal to drive a car that does not have all of its emissions equipment working properly.    If illegal, you will need to get another air pump (or just be illegal, but that's your choice).  But assuming you have a working air pump, check the manual to see how much deflection (the amount of play in the belts) there should be.  Locate the point on each belt that is halfway between two pulleys and push down on it.  This is the amount of deflection.  If you can't find that in the manual, a half inch or slightly more should be about right.
        The parts store may have sold you bulk heater hose.  You will have to cut this to the proper length by using the old heater hoses as "patterns".  Be sure to try to preserve the old heater and radiator hoses, if possible.  If they were not obviously useless, they will go into our emergency spares kit (along with the old clamps).  You may wish to put a small bit of silicone lube on the inside of the end of each heater hose and the bypass hose.  This will make them easier to slip back on.  As to that pesky little bypass hose, this normally can only be re-installed with a lot of wiggling.  But it's far from impossible.  Just keep trying.  When you removed the old bypass hose it may have been necessary to cut it.  Sometimes this is the only way to remove it (at least it's the easiest!), but that's OK.  A section of the old heater hose will usually suffice for a bypass hose in an emergency, so you wont have to preserve the old bypass hose.  Be sure all new clamps are tight.  And when putting on the clamps, note their positions.  You will want to have these on in a way that will make them easy to remove if it is ever necessary.
        The radiator hoses are up next.  They too, may require some wiggling to get off, but this is normal.  Just be careful not to damage them, if you can.  Once these are off, toss them (and their clamps) into the spares box.  Use a little silicone lube on the inside of the new hoses as well for ease of installation.  Get the clamps good and tight.  We're almost home free.
        By now the thermostat housing should be dry.  (If it isn't, guess what you do?  Wait!)  Install the new thermostat and gasket.  Be sure that they are installed exactly as they came out.  If uncertain, check the shop manual.  If installed improperly, they can cause the housing to crack or the thermostat not to work properly.  Remember to put some silicone gasket sealer on both sides of the gasket before reinstalling.  Set the housing back on and tighten down the bolts.  They should be fairly snug, but do not risk snapping the bolts off, nor cracking the housing.  The hard part is now over.
        Get a small screwdriver and inspect the front of the radiator.  If debris has clogged it, use the screwdriver to remove it.  And straighten the bent fins.
        Having installed all the new parts, we are sitting here with only an empty radiator.  The coolant now in there should have a fairly high content of water as we drained and refilled the radiator several times.  Begin by pouring in a gallon of the antifreeze alone.  Then pour in the bottle of water pump lube and anti rust.  Run the engine with the radiator cap off for 3-4 minutes to circulate the new antifreeze.  Open up one of the anti-freeze test strips and get some of your new coolant mixture on it to see what your boiling point is.  Two-hundred and fifty degrees or more is satisfactory.  You could go lower, but we will deal with that later. If the after all of this the radiator cap is leaking, you'll need a new one.  Once you have reached an adequate boiling point and have the proper amount of coolant in the radiator, the job is finished.  There are some optional considerations to make and we will deal with them next.

Optional Equipment

        There are several additional things to consider when preparing an old cooling system for daily use:

1)  Before beginning any of the repair, you may wish to take the vehicle to a shop and have the cooling system pressure tested.  If it had an external leak this should have been obvious.  If the level in the radiator had been going down but there were no signs of external leaks, there may be an internal one in the engine.  A cooling system pressure test will discover this.
2)  You may notice a piece of metal almost the size of your fist somewhere in the heater hose routing (on the 430/462 Lincoln it is attached to the firewall).  It will have a vacuum line leading to it.  This is the water valve.  It allows hot water into the heater core.  These can sometimes leak; they can also stick open or closed.  They are not very expensive and you may wish to replace this when you're doing the heater hoses.
3)  At the outset we mentioned that the purpose of the cooling system was to dissipate heat.  An additive you may wish to consider is a product made by Red Line Oil Company called, "Water Wetter".  This is a chemical that actually makes the water more efficient at removing heat.  It is very well proven, inexpensive, and available in most auto parts stores.  For more information  contact Red Line Oil Company, 6100 Egret Court, Benicia, CA   94510,  (800) 624-7958.  Or on the internet, www.redlineoil.com.  They have a great deal of information that can be printed off of the internet.
4)  In many years of Lincolns in the '60's and '70's the instrument panel did not include an engine temperature guage.  High quality ones are available for about $50 from aftermarket  companies that sell racing parts.  These can be installed in less than two hours and do not require a particularly high degree of mechanical ability.  This way you will have a means for knowing what a normal operating temperature is.  If it begins to climb, you'll know this and can avert problems before they become more serious.  The "idiot light" normally only comes on when the temperature has reached 250 degrees.  At that point, it's likely too late.
5)  We mentioned "green" anti-freeze.  Available now on the market is an orange anti-freeze that has an in-car life of 5 years or 150,000 miles.  It is sometimes standard in new cars now.  It is hardly more expensive than the green kind.  It will increase by 250% the amount of time you can go between cooling system flushes.  But you must be certain to remove all or virtually all of the old "green" anti-freeze.  Consult the manufacturer of an orange anti-freeze for exact details about switching from "green" to "orange".
6)   The cooling fan clutch (the funny disc thing on the front of the fan) should be checked per the instructions in the manual or by a professional.  (Not complicated, just several quick steps.)
7)  If you really want to go all out, you will also replace the water pump. It has a rubber diaphragm in it which commonly will go bad with age.  When it does, coolant leaks out of the bottom of the pump.  If your car is more than 20 years old and you have no idea if the water pump has been replaced, find out what a pump itself costs, and determine from the manual whether or not you want to attempt the replacement yourself.  If you don't, call your trusted repair shop and ask them for the labor charge.  Then make the decision what you want to do.  If you don't want to do it yourself and don't want to spend the money to do it now, you may select to carry a new or rebuilt pump in the emergency spares kit.  That way, if it does go bad on you out on the road, you can at least get it towed to the nearest shop and will have a water pump right there for them.

        And now your wife exclaims, "Harold, when are you going to take me for a ride in your old car?"